The Guitar Junkie

         

         
Pictures Courtesy From hub4thailand

• Affordable
• Great Tone
• Discontinued Model
• Light Weight
• Very Versatile
  
• Comfortable neck

• 60 Cycle Hum On High Gain
• TL-Current Pickups (Could have been better with some high quality pickups)
• Too Much Gloss On The Back Of The Neck

I picked up this pre owned piece from blackwood guitars at $800. I was captivated by the 70's era big headstock and vintage white finish (cream). Although i did not know what the actual specs were, I was told by the guys at the shop that this piece had Texas specials pups in it which led me to think that this piece had an alder body. Which is the vintage premium. Sometimes it's very hard to tell when it comes down to strats. You won't really know for sure untill you take the guitar apart for a closer look. Obviously, i don't think any guitar shop will allow you to do that before buying. I took a gamble and bought it anyway. It really looked awesome!

I brought this piece to my guitar tech to have it checked only to find out that i have lost the gamble. This piece is not the vintage premium that i thought it was. The body is made of basswood and had US vintage pups in them. Tsk Tsk Tsk ... Cheated? I would not like to think that i was as i kinda figured that this piece was being sold on consignment by the owner. Maybe even the guys at the shop didn't even know the true specs of this guitar. Or did they? Anyway. It don't matter. We all learn from our mistakes.

I got mixed emotions with this guitar. After having this guitar setup, The overall feel just didn't do it for me. Doing hard vibrato's on both E strings actually made the string slip off the fretboard from the 12th fret up. Maybe it's just me with my tendency to be a hard player but i was not comfortable with it. Tone wise, I didn't really get that snappy twang out of the basswood body and US vintage pups. It lacked the voice of a real strat that i have longed for.

All in all, This is not a bad piece to have. It's definitely eye candy when you walk into a room with it. Vintage white finish, Large 70's headstock, Bullet truss rod, 3 point 70's back plate makes it that much of a piece that's meant to be hanged on the wall rather than played. Maybe i was just unlucky to pick this particular one. 

The guitar that don't feel right are the guitars that are just not meant to be... 

Pro's:

• Beautiful vintage white finish
• 70's Large Haeadstock
• Bullet truss rod
• Backplate
• Lightweight
• Cosmetics are excellent!

Con's:

• Lack of twang and quack
• String slippage from the 12th fret onwards
• Too much gloss on the back of the neck. Sticky feel

Ratings: 6/10

Before

         

         

• Beautiful 3 tone sunburst with ash grains highly visible
• Satin finished neck
• Push button (S1) for 7 different tones on a 5 way switch
• Nice cleans
• No 60 cycle hum, Noiseless when pushed into high gain

• Heavy in weight
  
• High velocity snappy tone when pushed into high gain due to the ash + dual ceramic combo
• High retail price
• 12mm neck radius
  

         

         

• Affordable
• Value for money
• Smooth neck
• Excellent QC
• Tex Mex pickups
• 60th anniversary neck plate
• 60th anniversary gig bag
• Great playability
• Limited Edition

• Only available in blizzard pearl finish
  
• 60 cycle hum on high gain
  

         

         

• It's a PGM, What else can i say?
• Painted F holes
• Affordable
• Well built
• Edge III Pro
• Jumbo Frets
• Inverted headstock
• Thin neck
• Tuning Stability

• It's not a PGM301, What else can i say?
• Crappy INFS Pickups
• Does not come with a case with purchase
• Rosewood Fretboard

I got the X3L from City Music which is located at peace center. Most of you would probably know where to get it if you have been around.

This unit started out at a retail price of SGD$900+ somewhere in december 2007 during the christmas sale when it was first launched and i got mine at SGD$752 somewehere in febuary 2008 probably due to the fact that they have not released the X3L version for gearbox and the X3L didn't meet its requirements. Needless to say, a lot of consumers didn't want to jump onto the X3L wagon because of that. Well, i snapped it up anyway and played with it untill line 6 finally released gearbox 3.6 for the X3L a few months after the X3L was released.

Looks:
This beast first won me over with its good looks. It?s built like a tank with hard black metal and chrome handles and buttons. Once turned on, the yellow and red led lights would flash indicating the activation on the banks which made it even cooler. The expression pedal ( Wah / Volume Pedal ) has parts of chrome and grip holes to avoid slip ups. I would sometimes shamefully admire it from a distance while taking a smoke break from playing and I still think its one of the best looking Multi-EFX boards out there I have seen so far. Definitely & AbsoF***ingloutley Sexy!

Weight:
This thing is definitely heavy! One of the downs I see if you are planning to bring this one on the road without some sort of carry case which line 6 did not provide along with the purchase. This baby weighs like how it looks. A TANK!

Stand Alone Functionality
The X3L worked really well alone without the gearbox software. I won?t get into the different cabs, effects and amp models that the X3L have. There are just so many to sample from which I can only sum it up as value for money with the amount of features the X3L offered in that box. For the full range of EFX and amp models, check out the Line 6 website. There?s just about everything inside and it?s just a matter of tweaking it to your desired preference.

There?s always this thing about Multi-EFX boards compared to the individual stomp boxes or pre amps. Since the beginning of time, the comparison between stomp boxes and how Multi-EFX boards sounded ?Robotic?or ?Too digitalized?. With the X3L, I found that the features did prove otherwise. It sounded good & real enough. But of course, nothing beats the real thing when it comes to cabs and amp modeling. I guess not everyone will have that kind of arsenal fitted into the average Joe?s apartment.

One thing I liked about the X3L is the LCD screen. It?s big and bright enough to be viewed from a stand point. Not much of squinting your eyes just to check if you are on the right bank or in tune while tuning. Even on stage level where lights do go off and sometimes in moments of pure darkness, the led lights and bright LCD screen helps for easy navigation around the banks and switches.

The direct headphone plugin is a much welcomed feature and you don?t have to worry about the authorities knocking on your door late into the night of your loud shredding from complaining neighbours. Get yourself a good set of headphones to do the X3L some justice. It sounds amazingly good with a good set of headphones. At the back of the X3L is where you will find how versatile this unit is. From XLR?s to Variax compatibility to Left and Rights and Etc. I don?t want go into detail about what each of them does because it will be so much of a drag. Just check out the SPECS page which tells it all.

Functionality Through Software ( Gearbox )
If you ask me, I?d say that this is what sets the X3L apart from the rest. And it?s the playable ability to have your X3L plugged into your PC or MAC through USB. First of all, the ability to update your X3L through line 6 monkey is a revolutionary thing. You don't have to just deal with the flaws cause it was made that way and there's nothing you could do about it. Updates on firmware and bugs along the way can be fixed in a jiffy with just a few click on the mouse and restarting your X3L. Just some worrying thoughts is that the X3L was released somewhere in 07 christmas season and there has already been 2 firmware updates which proved that the X3L had more bugs and fixes in that short time to be comfortable with an amazing product. None the less, Most of the bugs have been fixed.

Gearbox is a great software. Making it really easy to explore and find that customized sweet tone. There?s no need to break your back by bending down to tweak the knobs on the main unit until you hit the sweet spot and find your tone. Just use gearbox to tweak the controls with your mouse and on the comfort of your chair without having to bend over to touch the main unit. After which you will be able name and save your patches directly into your X3L. No more back breaking feats!

Online
You will be able to use gearbox to get online to download bank patches for artist tones. The last time i checked, there were not many to choose from as the X3L is still fairly new and there isn't a section where i could download artist tones for the X3L which would be loaded instantly once i had my X3L hooked up to my PC. I did try out certain tones while i was using the Toneport UX1 and i have to say that the artist tones line 6 provided were not really up to par. In fact, the customized user tones that users uploaded were closer to the real deal. A 3 month online trail will allow you to download backing tracks to jam along to which i found was quite fun to play around with. But once that expires, it would mean whipping out your credit card to pay for a full subscription to continue with that service. You'll be opted to purchase an additonal plug in for more tones as well which is pretty pricey if i might add.

Recording
I?ve tried recording riffs with Cubase SX3 and it works like a charm. The recordings sounded good. With the ability to use the amp modeling system made the recordings real enough for people to not know that you didn?t have an amp on this track. The Amp modeling mics can be adjusted to suit your tracks as well. This really helps in making the ambience and room feel of your amp modeling as real as it can get.

The Dual Tone amp modeling feature is great. It sounds like you have 2 different guitars tones going at it which gives an additional boost of finding that unique tone. Switch the dual tone off and you?ll get a single sounding guitar tone for certain part of songs with less intensity if needed. This brings great feel and life into tracks and it?s just with a stomp on the bank. There have not been any lag issues with me so far. Just make sure your PC or MAC meets the system requirements.

The Good
It looks awesome, Has a whole ton of features that will blow you away. With the right amount of tweaking, there are endless possibilities. The DUAL TONE feature I must say is one of the best features when it comes down to amp modeling that sets this apart from the rest. Recording made easy through Gearbox is great for those who are inexperienced at the whole recording studio process. Gone are the days where you?d have to mic up your amp and find the exact spot to put your mic and get all kinds of leaks and complicated mixer boards issues only a sound engineer would understand. Tone wise, I?ll just sum it up as great cause there is just so many to choose from. You will need to tweak it to find your tone and hear it for yourself as it comes down to guitar setup and play style as well.

The Bad
Gearbox functionality is still in the midst of being a full out release with some bugs in it. When the X3L is connected to gearbox, There?s a half second lag when switching banks. Which in some cases is vital if you are doing a one take recording that requires you to change banks. This will happen from time to time and is ok if you are recording with different tracks on a song. The weight of the X3L can be an issue it you bring this one the road with you a lot. That?s unless you have roadies with you to carry your X3L for you wherever you go. The lack of phantom power is a big down to this unit. You will not be able to use condenser mics with the X3L. The X3L can be a little complicated to use with all those knobs and takes time getting used to. The user manual is not much help. You will need to go hands on wth trial & error to a certain extent.

Customer Service
I had to contact Line 6 about the issues with gearbox before it was officially released and I would say that customer service was prompt but useless. I had no real problems so far with the X3L so I won?t know for sure how good their customer service is.

Overall
This is a great unit if you are considering in getting a Multi-EFX board. Probably the best in the market right now in my opinion that?s not cut throat expensive. It?s definitely value for money with the features it packs in be it if you are a bass / guitar player or a vocalist. A one stop board to aid your recording & playing needs that?s not really hard to understand. 

Rating: 8/10

I got the X3L from City Music which is located at peace center. Most of you would probably know where to get it if you have been around.

This unit started out at a retail price of SGD$900+ somewhere in december 2007 during the christmas sale when it was first launched and i got mine at SGD$752 somewehere in febuary 2008 probably due to the fact that they have not released the X3L version for gearbox and the X3L didn't meet its requirements. Needless to say, a lot of consumers didn't want to jump onto the X3L wagon because of that. Well, i snapped it up anyway and played with it untill line 6 finally released gearbox 3.6 for the X3L a few months after the X3L was released.

Looks:
This beast first won me over with its good looks. It?s built like a tank with hard black metal and chrome handles and buttons. Once turned on, the yellow and red led lights would flash indicating the activation on the banks which made it even cooler. The expression pedal ( Wah / Volume Pedal ) has parts of chrome and grip holes to avoid slip ups. I would sometimes shamefully admire it from a distance while taking a smoke break from playing and I still think its one of the best looking Multi-EFX boards out there I have seen so far. Definitely & AbsoF***ingloutley Sexy!

Weight:
This thing is definitely heavy! One of the downs I see if you are planning to bring this one on the road without some sort of carry case which line 6 did not provide along with the purchase. This baby weighs like how it looks. A TANK!

Stand Alone Functionality
The X3L worked really well alone without the gearbox software. I won?t get into the different cabs, effects and amp models that the X3L have. There are just so many to sample from which I can only sum it up as value for money with the amount of features the X3L offered in that box. For the full range of EFX and amp models, check out the Line 6 website. There?s just about everything inside and it?s just a matter of tweaking it to your desired preference.

There?s always this thing about Multi-EFX boards compared to the individual stomp boxes or pre amps. Since the beginning of time, the comparison between stomp boxes and how Multi-EFX boards sounded ?Robotic?or ?Too digitalized?. With the X3L, I found that the features did prove otherwise. It sounded good & real enough. But of course, nothing beats the real thing when it comes to cabs and amp modeling. I guess not everyone will have that kind of arsenal fitted into the average Joe?s apartment.

One thing I liked about the X3L is the LCD screen. It?s big and bright enough to be viewed from a stand point. Not much of squinting your eyes just to check if you are on the right bank or in tune while tuning. Even on stage level where lights do go off and sometimes in moments of pure darkness, the led lights and bright LCD screen helps for easy navigation around the banks and switches.

The direct headphone plugin is a much welcomed feature and you don?t have to worry about the authorities knocking on your door late into the night of your loud shredding from complaining neighbours. Get yourself a good set of headphones to do the X3L some justice. It sounds amazingly good with a good set of headphones. At the back of the X3L is where you will find how versatile this unit is. From XLR?s to Variax compatibility to Left and Rights and Etc. I don?t want go into detail about what each of them does because it will be so much of a drag. Just check out the SPECS page which tells it all.

Functionality Through Software ( Gearbox )
If you ask me, I?d say that this is what sets the X3L apart from the rest. And it?s the playable ability to have your X3L plugged into your PC or MAC through USB. First of all, the ability to update your X3L through line 6 monkey is a revolutionary thing. You don't have to just deal with the flaws cause it was made that way and there's nothing you could do about it. Updates on firmware and bugs along the way can be fixed in a jiffy with just a few click on the mouse and restarting your X3L. Just some worrying thoughts is that the X3L was released somewhere in 07 christmas season and there has already been 2 firmware updates which proved that the X3L had more bugs and fixes in that short time to be comfortable with an amazing product. None the less, Most of the bugs have been fixed.

Gearbox is a great software. Making it really easy to explore and find that customized sweet tone. There?s no need to break your back by bending down to tweak the knobs on the main unit until you hit the sweet spot and find your tone. Just use gearbox to tweak the controls with your mouse and on the comfort of your chair without having to bend over to touch the main unit. After which you will be able name and save your patches directly into your X3L. No more back breaking feats!

Online
You will be able to use gearbox to get online to download bank patches for artist tones. The last time i checked, there were not many to choose from as the X3L is still fairly new and there isn't a section where i could download artist tones for the X3L which would be loaded instantly once i had my X3L hooked up to my PC. I did try out certain tones while i was using the Toneport UX1 and i have to say that the artist tones line 6 provided were not really up to par. In fact, the customized user tones that users uploaded were closer to the real deal. A 3 month online trail will allow you to download backing tracks to jam along to which i found was quite fun to play around with. But once that expires, it would mean whipping out your credit card to pay for a full subscription to continue with that service. You'll be opted to purchase an additonal plug in for more tones as well which is pretty pricey if i might add.

Recording
I?ve tried recording riffs with Cubase SX3 and it works like a charm. The recordings sounded good. With the ability to use the amp modeling system made the recordings real enough for people to not know that you didn?t have an amp on this track. The Amp modeling mics can be adjusted to suit your tracks as well. This really helps in making the ambience and room feel of your amp modeling as real as it can get.

The Dual Tone amp modeling feature is great. It sounds like you have 2 different guitars tones going at it which gives an additional boost of finding that unique tone. Switch the dual tone off and you?ll get a single sounding guitar tone for certain part of songs with less intensity if needed. This brings great feel and life into tracks and it?s just with a stomp on the bank. There have not been any lag issues with me so far. Just make sure your PC or MAC meets the system requirements.

The Good
It looks awesome, Has a whole ton of features that will blow you away. With the right amount of tweaking, there are endless possibilities. The DUAL TONE feature I must say is one of the best features when it comes down to amp modeling that sets this apart from the rest. Recording made easy through Gearbox is great for those who are inexperienced at the whole recording studio process. Gone are the days where you?d have to mic up your amp and find the exact spot to put your mic and get all kinds of leaks and complicated mixer boards issues only a sound engineer would understand. Tone wise, I?ll just sum it up as great cause there is just so many to choose from. You will need to tweak it to find your tone and hear it for yourself as it comes down to guitar setup and play style as well.

The Bad
Gearbox functionality is still in the midst of being a full out release with some bugs in it. When the X3L is connected to gearbox, There?s a half second lag when switching banks. Which in some cases is vital if you are doing a one take recording that requires you to change banks. This will happen from time to time and is ok if you are recording with different tracks on a song. The weight of the X3L can be an issue it you bring this one the road with you a lot. That?s unless you have roadies with you to carry your X3L for you wherever you go. The lack of phantom power is a big down to this unit. You will not be able to use condenser mics with the X3L. The X3L can be a little complicated to use with all those knobs and takes time getting used to. The user manual is not much help. You will need to go hands on wth trial & error to a certain extent.

Customer Service
I had to contact Line 6 about the issues with gearbox before it was officially released and I would say that customer service was prompt but useless. I had no real problems so far with the X3L so I won?t know for sure how good their customer service is.

Overall
This is a great unit if you are considering in getting a Multi-EFX board. Probably the best in the market right now in my opinion that?s not cut throat expensive. It?s definitely value for money with the features it packs in be it if you are a bass / guitar player or a vocalist. A one stop board to aid your recording & playing needs that?s not really hard to understand. 

Rating: 8/10

This article was taken from ebay and i think i might help those who are interested in finding out more before purchasing fenders. Credit to the author who wrote this robwil1952. All prices here are in USD so bear that in mind.

One of the most frustrating and confusing purchases to consider for the novice guitar buyer is the Fender Stratocaster (aka Strat). There are so many different variants of the Stratocaster being produced by Fender (or Fender licensed entities) that it's nearly impossible for first time buyers to have any idea what the differences are or why there are so many in the first place. Here's what I hope will be a guide for the novice. I am certainly not an expert on the subject. This is not intended to enlighten experts so please keep that in mind while reading. But I believe I've learned enough during my own experiences to be of some assistance and guidance to those just starting out in this endeavor. For the sake of simplicity I'm just going to talk about the most common recent production Stratocasters. Keep in mind that there are a whole slew of others out there including vintage American and Japanese Standards and Squiers, Korean Pro-Tone Squiers, vintage re-issue and anniversary models, Classic and Deluxe Series, Custom Shop models, Artist models etc., that are beyond the scope of this guide. It's really mind-boggling the number of different kinds of Strats you'll come across. Go to .:: Fender?.com ::. sometime and peruse their product selections. Anyway, let's get started.

- Current production Fender Stratocasters come in 3 basic groups which are:

1) American Series Stratocasters, which are made in America (aka MIA). These used to be called American Standards and still are by some. I believe they've been called 'American Series' since around 2000 but that doesn't really matter here. The standard American Series will say "Made In U.S.A" right on the front of the headstock (although this may be found on the back of the headstock on certain models, i.e. the American Deluxe). These are considered to be the best and cost quite a bit of change. New they can be over $1000 and used you can find them for $600 and up. They will have a serial number that will typically be found on the back of the headstock. The 90's models will start with 'Nx' and the 2000 models will typically start with 'Zx' or a 'DZx' (as in the Deluxe) where 'x' equals the last number of the model year. So a serial number beginning with 'N3' will be a 1993 model and a serial number of 'Z3' will be a 2003 model. The serial numbers of both will include 5 or 6 additional digits. (i.e. N3256324 or Z3621835). A note here for clarification, sometimes production years will carry over into the next year so it is possible to get a guitar with a serial number indicating a year other than the actual production date. For example, I've got an American Standard with a serial number starting with 'N5' which is actually a 1996 model. It's got the 60 anniversary sticker (like the '96's) and the neck pocket and pickguard are stamped '1996'.
Here's a couple good websites to check serial numbers and descriptions for all different sorts of model year Stratocasters.

Guitar Nucleus - Fender Serial Numbers

Vintage Guitars Info - Fender, collecting vintage guitars fender stratocaster, strat, telecaster, tele

The standard American Series Strat will come with 3 high-quality single-coil pickups made with alnico (aluminum/nickel/cobalt) magnets, specifically alnico 5 (Single coil - Wikipedia, the free encyclopedia). This is one of the main differences over the lower priced models which we will be discussing later. The 6 pole pieces on each pickup (one for each string) are the actual magnets. In the cheaper single-coil pickups (standard on most of the Mexican and Squier models), the pole pieces will be steel and the magnets will consist of ceramic bars (ferrite) running along the bottoms of the pickups. Here's a couple decent links for some suggested reading on pickups and pickup differences.

Single coil - Wikipedia, the free encyclopedia

CRAIG'S GUITAR TECH RESOURCE - Pickups

How Guitar Pickups Work, by Tom Watson

Notes: There is also a budget priced American Stratocaster called the 'Highway 1' that has been produced since around 2002. These are currently about $750 shipped for a new 2006 model and can be found used for as low as $450-$500 for an older model. They feature a cheaper finish and a little less quality in the pickups and hardware, although the 2006 model has been 'upgraded' (here is a link to another guide that briefly explains the upgrades/changes if you are interested. Fender Highway 1 Stratocaster Upgrades ) These guitars would be rated somewhere between a genuine American Series and a Mexican Strat. Although I admit I've never played a Highway 1, if it were me, I'd be inclined to pick up a nice used American Series for the same price or less.

There was also a Strat made for a year in 1997 called a 'California Series'. I've read something to the effect that this Strat is similar to a '62 reissue and supposedly the body was shipped down to the Mexico plant for painting and then it was shipped back to the U.S. for assembly. The serial number is a little unusual and may start with 'AMXN7' followed by 5 digits. They are considered 'Made in the U.S.A.' though and are considered by some to be a bargain if you can find them for around $550 or less.

2) Fender Standard Stratocasters, which are only made in Mexico (aka MIM). These may be referred to as Mexican Standards also. These will have 'Made in Mexico' and a serial number right on the front of the headstock (except for certain vintage re-issue and deluxe models). The serial number will begin with 'MNx' for 90's models and 'MZx' for 2000 models, where 'x' = the last digit of the model year, followed by 5 or 6 other numbers. So a serial number beginning with 'MN3' will be a 1993 model and one starting with 'MZ3' will be a 2003 model. These typically sell new for approximately $399-$445 shipped to your door from the online discount places ( like Musician's Friend - Buy musical instruments, music gear, musical equipment online ) Sometimes a special issue will be more and prices may differ depending on color options. Keep these prices in mind before bidding on an auction. It pays to do some research first! Stock Mexican made Standard Strats will routinely sell for between $225-$300 used on Ebay, depending on model year and condition. If you are patient you will be able to find a very nice one in this price range. This is not to say a nice used one is not worth more than that. It's just that you can easily find a very nice one cheaper, if that's your goal. If it's a very recent model (2005-2006) in great shape, with no issues, then it may be worth up to $325 or so but just remember before you plunk down that much cash that you can get a brand new 2006 model, which supposedly has a few upgrades over the previous years models, shipped to your door for $399 if you search Ebay or buy from one of the large online dealers such as Musicians Friend.
Buy Fender Standard Stratocaster Electric Guitar online at Musician's Friend

3) Squier Stratocasters, which are currently mostly made in China and Indonesia, with some coming from Korea. (Note: There were some that were made in Mexico in the very early '90's that have the standard Mexican serial number, i.e. MNxxxxxx and also some made in the USA in the 1980's I believe that may start with and 'E'). The newer ones will say 'Crafted in Indonesia' or 'Crafted in China' on the back of the headstock but the older ones will normally have 'Made in Korea' or 'Made in China' on the front of the headstock. I won't go into the serial numbers too much here other than to say that they are normally found on the back of the headstock, but these will say "Squier" in large letters right on the front of the headstock instead of the regular "Fender" logo that's on the American and Mexican Standard models. The Squiers may say something like 'by Fender' in smaller letters. To make things more confusing, the Squier line of Stratocasters come in 3 sub-models. The top of the Squier line is the 'Standard' which sells for around $199 new, the 'Affinity' which goes for around $149 and the bottom of the line 'Bullet' which goes for around $99 new. Those are shipped to your door prices. It's amazing what some people will try to sell these for on Ebay but you should be able to find a very nice used Squier Standard on Ebay for between $120-$160 shipped.

The hierarchy of course is American Series, then Fender (Mexican) Standard, then Squier Standard, then Squier Affinity and lastly the Squier Bullet. ( NOTE: Some of the newer Mexican made models like the Classic and Deluxe models and the Artist models can be much more expensive....and nicer!... than the Standard models and rival the American models in sound, feel and quality!)

The American and Mexican Strats will have similar bodies and necks as far as materials go but the Americans will typically have the nicer feeling necks, bodies made of fewer pieces, much nicer finishes and better hardware (tuners, bridges, etc) and electronics (pickups, tone/volume controls, etc). The American models will have a 22 fret neck with a width of around 1.68" at the nut and most Mexicans will have a 21 fret neck with a 1.65" width at the nut. Both are very good quality though and lots of people are perfectly happy with the Mexican models, which are a great value for the money. You can upgrade the pickups to American Series quality or better and end up with a really great guitar. The general rule is to buy as good of a guitar as you can afford. The better the guitar, the more likely you are to pick it up and play! Used is a great way to start as you can usually get your money back on a resale. That's if you don't overpay to begin with, which is what this guide is intended to prevent. Plus, when you buy used you can get a much better guitar for the same amount of money. The American models and some of the Mexican made special models can hold their values very well. Use the new and used pricing I've listed above as a guide but it never hurts to do your own research. Check the Ebay 'Completed Listings' for similar models to get a good idea what the going prices are.

- What's a Fat Strat? -

Yes there is such a thing as a 'Fat Strat' also called an HSS (Humbucker, Single-coil, Single-coil) Strat. The typical Strat has 3 single-coil pickups. The Fat Strat has 2 single-coil pickups, one in the neck and one in the mid position, and a humbucker pickup in the bridge position. Humbuckers give what's called a 'fatter' sound than a single-coil. They have more windings and, as a result, are 'hotter' (more output). Generally speaking, the hotter the pickup, the more prominent the midrange frequencies will be hence they're said to have a 'thicker' or 'warmer' sound with less treble bite. Humbuckers are what you'll find in guitars such as the Gibson Les Paul.
The Fat Strat can give you more tone options if that's the kind of sound you're after. But if you're after the true vintage sound of the Stratocaster you may want to stick with the standard 3 single-coil variety. You can buy after market single-coils that are wound hotter and give you a warmer sound also. A lot of people will add a hotter single-coil in the bridge position which I guess could give a "similar" effect as a humbucker.
There are also HH Strats which contain two humbucker pickups and no single-coils at all. These can also be referred to as 'Double Fat' Strats.

- Some things to watch out for when buying a Strat

Stratocaster parts are highly interchangable. Leo Fender designed them that way on purpose. Necks can be removed and replaced very easily by removing 4 screws. Other parts are easily changed out also and there are a ton of after-market parts and/or parts from Stratocaster copies (many inferior), including necks and bodies out there. Read the ads carefully, ask questions if the ads aren't clear, look for serial numbers and check the sellers feedback ratings. I will actually read the feedback the seller has received. His overall rating may be deceptive. Maybe it's all from buying and not from selling. Look at his feedback from buyers. Look at the sellers previous sales. If it looks like they sell a lot of guitars but then try to play dumb in an ad about a certain guitar you should maybe be suspicious. Keep in mind that you can buy very real looking Fender logo decals out there. So anyone could buy an after-market neck and slap a Fender decal on it and attach it to any Strat looking body (Squier, after-market, copy, etc). That's not to say that there aren't excellent after-market parts out there......there are, but there are also inferior parts too. But the bottom line is, if the guitar has a Fender Stratocaster decal on the headstock but no serial number anywhere you should be suspicious.
Many sellers who are selling a Stratocaster will fail to mention in the ad that it's a Squier! Or if they do mention that it's a Squier, they won't mention which model it is (Standard, Affinity or Bullet). And they will often make a point of not giving you a good shot of the headstock so you won't be able to see for yourself. Some of these sellers are obviously just not real knowledgeable themselves but others do it on purpose to dupe unsuspecting buyers. They are counting on your lack of knowledge to charge more than the guitar is worth or to get a quick sale. If the ad does not mention what model (or year even) the guitar is you need to ask specific questions and if you don't get an answer you should be very careful. The bottom line is, if it was made in Korea, China or Indonesia then it's definitely a Squier of some sort.

Here's a picture of a Squier Standard model. Notice the small "Standard' decal on the end of the headstock indicating that this is a 'Standard' model. This is where you would also find the 'Affinity' decal for the Affinity models.



Make sure you know the cosmetic condition of the guitar before bidding. If it isn't mentioned you can email the seller and ask specific questions.

DON'T FALL FOR BOGUS CLAIMS FROM SELLERS!!! I've seen many sellers tout their Strat as being "UPGRADED" when in fact all they've done is put a different pick guard on it or replace the nut. While maybe nice, these modifications alone do not really warrant a premium. Another trick sellers like to play is to claim that the era or year (or factory) their Strat was made in "was back in (pick a date or factory) when they made them good" or "better", "not like the junk they make now", or similar claims. Actually the truth is that the quality and quality control today is probably at an all time high.

Many sellers like to quote the original list or retail price of the guitar. Don't go by this number! The street prices on new guitars can be up to hundreds less than the list or retail prices!

Between 1994-1996 (S/N will start with MN4-MN6), there were some Mexican Standard Strats made that had a very small 'Squier Series' decal on the ball of the headstock These are not to be confused with the 'Squier' Stratocaster model line! Although very similar to real Mexican Standard Strats, there are some subtle differences. These models were made using the same bodies and necks as the Mexican Standard version but they used the cheaper Squier hardware (tuners and bridges). The single-coil ceramic pickups appear to be the same as the Mexican Standards but, since they used a hodgepodge of parts on these, it is not a guarantee. The volume potentiometer can be 500K ohm vs the typical 250K. These guitars do not have the typical 'Squier' decal in large letters, they have a small 'Squier Series' decal on the ball of the headstock, right in the front. Many, if not most, previous owners have found a way to remove this decal (out of vanity?) but there are still many easily identifiable traits. The easiest way to tell is by looking at the 'Fender' logo decal on the front of the headstock. The following picture show a standard Mexican 'Fender' logo decal. Notice how it is a silver-ish (or gold-ish) color with a dark outline



Now here is a picture (below) of the 'Squier Series' headstock. This one happens to have the 'Squier Series' decal but also notice how the entire 'Fender' decal is a solid dark color and there is no outline around the logo. As far as I know, these are the only Stratocasters with the solid dark logo and no outline. However, with the enormous varieties over the years and the sharing of parts between factories I suppose it is possible to find an exception. But chances are extremely good that if you see this type of Fender logo , it's one of those with the 'different' tuners and bridge.

I am convinced many sellers don't even know this themselves as they probably bought the guitar used with the decal already removed. Or let's give them the benefit of the doubt and say, maybe there were some without the decal....maybe they ran out or something! However, all you have to do is compare it to a real Mexican Standard and you will notice the different bridge and tuning machines. The 'Squier Series' decal Strats are certainly not bad guitars and would probably fall between a genuine Mexican Standard and a Squier Standard. These should not command quite the same price as the genuine Mexican Standard though due to the cheaper hardware, but when new I don't think there was a very large price difference. Look for good ones under $200, but if you're patient you can sometimes grab these for between $125-$150. For that price these are a nice bargain but remember, you can often get a real Mexican Standard for $225. (NOTE: There were some 'Squier Series' decal Strats made in Korea in the '90's also but there is virtually no information about them. They do not have the solid dark 'Fender' logo but do have the 'Squier Series' decal. They say 'Made in Korea' on the front of the headstock. These are not the same quality as the Mexican made 'Squier Series' guitars due to lower quality bodies and necks!)

NOTE: A clarification on the solid dark logo: In the very late 60's and throughout most of the 70's there was a darkened-in Fender logo on the American Strats but it was within a gold outline and usually on the large 70's style headstock. Here is an example of the American on top and the Squier Series on bottom. It's really hard to tell with these small pictures, but the logo on top has a gold outline around the Fender logo and then is colored inside the outline. The one on the bottom is solid with no outline. There is a special '70's issue Mexican Strat that does have the period-correct logo like the top picture below but it is in an outline and also happens to have the large 70's style headstock and large 'Stratocaster' decal. So, to identify the true 'Squier Series' decal Strats look for all of the following... the small headstock, solid dark Fender logo with no outline, serial number starting with MN4, MN5 or MN6 and the different tuners and bridge/saddles (see pics in Update 2 at the end of the review). Despite what some sellers are saying, you cannot dispute the fact that the tuners and bridges are not the same! Yeah, so maybe the decal's not there...it doesn't matter.




The 2008 American made Strats are back to being called 'American Standards'! And some nice changes! Per the Fender website:

A new bridge with improved bent-steel saddles and a copper-infused high-mass block for increased resonance and sustain.
A new neck treatment?tinted for a richer presentation, with the maple or rosewood fingerboard buffed to a high gloss. The back of the neck still has that silky satin finish.
A thinner finish undercoat that lets the body breathe and improves resonance.
A new Fender-exclusive SKB molded case. (note: anything would be an improvement)

Two beautiful new finish options, Sienna Sunburst and Blizzard Pearl.



The most significant visual change is with the bent steel saddles onthe bridge. They now look like the Mexican models but still only have the 2 screws whereas the Mexican Standard models have 6 screws holding the bridge to the body. Here's the new American Standard:
$999.99 - $1,099.99 and free shipping at the online shops.

I have received several emails about my write-up on the 'Squier Series' Strats...the ones with the solid dark Fender logo? You know, my intention was never to knock that model but people that own them or are trying to sell them refuse to believe that they own anything other than a regular Mexican Standard. OK... so here's pictures of a genuine Mexican Standard and a 'Squier Series'. I will give pictures of the tuners and the bridge that show the differences. You may have to save these images to your computer and enlarge them.

First, here is a picture of a 'Squier Series' tuning pegs:


Now here is the Mexican Standard tuners:


And here is the 'Squier Series' bridge and saddles: These are not bent steel.


And the Mexican Standard bridge: These are the bent steel type saddles that are stamped 'Fender'


If anyone has pictures of a Strat with the solid dark Fender logo (with no outline), on a small headstock that has the regular Mexican Standard tuners and bridge I would love to see them.


Well, that's about all I can offer for now. I will update this as I gain more knowledge or as the market changes. Again, please keep in mind that I have only discussed the more common types of stock Strats you'll find out there. You'll find owners that have performed upgrades asking more for them. Like I mentioned in the beginning, there are many more vintage, re-issues and/or specialty Strats I have not talked about. Some of these are very highly thought of and/or possibly collectable and can command much higher prices and are beyond the scope of this guide (and my knowledge!).
I hope this helps relieve some of the confusion about all of the different Strats, or even more hopefully it doesn't add to it!

Updated links to Fender Strat information:

Fender Stratocaster - Wikipedia, the free encyclopedia

Stratocasters (Strats) by Model: Photos and Information - Strat Collector News

I am not anywhere near an expert on this subject....far from it. The intention was just to try and make it a little more clear for the newbie's. I apologize if you found something you disagree with. If you've found this guide helpful, good for you! You have learned something new and spread the good word.

Disclaimer: I am absolutely not an expert nor am I qualified to appraise the value of your guitar. I'm sorry, but all I know concerning Strats and their values is in the guide.

This article was taken from ebay and i think i might help those who are interested in finding out more before purchasing fenders. Credit to the author who wrote this robwil1952. All prices here are in USD so bear that in mind.

One of the most frustrating and confusing purchases to consider for the novice guitar buyer is the Fender Stratocaster (aka Strat). There are so many different variants of the Stratocaster being produced by Fender (or Fender licensed entities) that it's nearly impossible for first time buyers to have any idea what the differences are or why there are so many in the first place. Here's what I hope will be a guide for the novice. I am certainly not an expert on the subject. This is not intended to enlighten experts so please keep that in mind while reading. But I believe I've learned enough during my own experiences to be of some assistance and guidance to those just starting out in this endeavor. For the sake of simplicity I'm just going to talk about the most common recent production Stratocasters. Keep in mind that there are a whole slew of others out there including vintage American and Japanese Standards and Squiers, Korean Pro-Tone Squiers, vintage re-issue and anniversary models, Classic and Deluxe Series, Custom Shop models, Artist models etc., that are beyond the scope of this guide. It's really mind-boggling the number of different kinds of Strats you'll come across. Go to .:: Fender?.com ::. sometime and peruse their product selections. Anyway, let's get started.

- Current production Fender Stratocasters come in 3 basic groups which are:

1) American Series Stratocasters, which are made in America (aka MIA). These used to be called American Standards and still are by some. I believe they've been called 'American Series' since around 2000 but that doesn't really matter here. The standard American Series will say "Made In U.S.A" right on the front of the headstock (although this may be found on the back of the headstock on certain models, i.e. the American Deluxe). These are considered to be the best and cost quite a bit of change. New they can be over $1000 and used you can find them for $600 and up. They will have a serial number that will typically be found on the back of the headstock. The 90's models will start with 'Nx' and the 2000 models will typically start with 'Zx' or a 'DZx' (as in the Deluxe) where 'x' equals the last number of the model year. So a serial number beginning with 'N3' will be a 1993 model and a serial number of 'Z3' will be a 2003 model. The serial numbers of both will include 5 or 6 additional digits. (i.e. N3256324 or Z3621835). A note here for clarification, sometimes production years will carry over into the next year so it is possible to get a guitar with a serial number indicating a year other than the actual production date. For example, I've got an American Standard with a serial number starting with 'N5' which is actually a 1996 model. It's got the 60 anniversary sticker (like the '96's) and the neck pocket and pickguard are stamped '1996'.
Here's a couple good websites to check serial numbers and descriptions for all different sorts of model year Stratocasters.

Guitar Nucleus - Fender Serial Numbers

Vintage Guitars Info - Fender, collecting vintage guitars fender stratocaster, strat, telecaster, tele

The standard American Series Strat will come with 3 high-quality single-coil pickups made with alnico (aluminum/nickel/cobalt) magnets, specifically alnico 5 (Single coil - Wikipedia, the free encyclopedia). This is one of the main differences over the lower priced models which we will be discussing later. The 6 pole pieces on each pickup (one for each string) are the actual magnets. In the cheaper single-coil pickups (standard on most of the Mexican and Squier models), the pole pieces will be steel and the magnets will consist of ceramic bars (ferrite) running along the bottoms of the pickups. Here's a couple decent links for some suggested reading on pickups and pickup differences.

Single coil - Wikipedia, the free encyclopedia

CRAIG'S GUITAR TECH RESOURCE - Pickups

How Guitar Pickups Work, by Tom Watson

Notes: There is also a budget priced American Stratocaster called the 'Highway 1' that has been produced since around 2002. These are currently about $750 shipped for a new 2006 model and can be found used for as low as $450-$500 for an older model. They feature a cheaper finish and a little less quality in the pickups and hardware, although the 2006 model has been 'upgraded' (here is a link to another guide that briefly explains the upgrades/changes if you are interested. Fender Highway 1 Stratocaster Upgrades ) These guitars would be rated somewhere between a genuine American Series and a Mexican Strat. Although I admit I've never played a Highway 1, if it were me, I'd be inclined to pick up a nice used American Series for the same price or less.

There was also a Strat made for a year in 1997 called a 'California Series'. I've read something to the effect that this Strat is similar to a '62 reissue and supposedly the body was shipped down to the Mexico plant for painting and then it was shipped back to the U.S. for assembly. The serial number is a little unusual and may start with 'AMXN7' followed by 5 digits. They are considered 'Made in the U.S.A.' though and are considered by some to be a bargain if you can find them for around $550 or less.

2) Fender Standard Stratocasters, which are only made in Mexico (aka MIM). These may be referred to as Mexican Standards also. These will have 'Made in Mexico' and a serial number right on the front of the headstock (except for certain vintage re-issue and deluxe models). The serial number will begin with 'MNx' for 90's models and 'MZx' for 2000 models, where 'x' = the last digit of the model year, followed by 5 or 6 other numbers. So a serial number beginning with 'MN3' will be a 1993 model and one starting with 'MZ3' will be a 2003 model. These typically sell new for approximately $399-$445 shipped to your door from the online discount places ( like Musician's Friend - Buy musical instruments, music gear, musical equipment online ) Sometimes a special issue will be more and prices may differ depending on color options. Keep these prices in mind before bidding on an auction. It pays to do some research first! Stock Mexican made Standard Strats will routinely sell for between $225-$300 used on Ebay, depending on model year and condition. If you are patient you will be able to find a very nice one in this price range. This is not to say a nice used one is not worth more than that. It's just that you can easily find a very nice one cheaper, if that's your goal. If it's a very recent model (2005-2006) in great shape, with no issues, then it may be worth up to $325 or so but just remember before you plunk down that much cash that you can get a brand new 2006 model, which supposedly has a few upgrades over the previous years models, shipped to your door for $399 if you search Ebay or buy from one of the large online dealers such as Musicians Friend.
Buy Fender Standard Stratocaster Electric Guitar online at Musician's Friend

3) Squier Stratocasters, which are currently mostly made in China and Indonesia, with some coming from Korea. (Note: There were some that were made in Mexico in the very early '90's that have the standard Mexican serial number, i.e. MNxxxxxx and also some made in the USA in the 1980's I believe that may start with and 'E'). The newer ones will say 'Crafted in Indonesia' or 'Crafted in China' on the back of the headstock but the older ones will normally have 'Made in Korea' or 'Made in China' on the front of the headstock. I won't go into the serial numbers too much here other than to say that they are normally found on the back of the headstock, but these will say "Squier" in large letters right on the front of the headstock instead of the regular "Fender" logo that's on the American and Mexican Standard models. The Squiers may say something like 'by Fender' in smaller letters. To make things more confusing, the Squier line of Stratocasters come in 3 sub-models. The top of the Squier line is the 'Standard' which sells for around $199 new, the 'Affinity' which goes for around $149 and the bottom of the line 'Bullet' which goes for around $99 new. Those are shipped to your door prices. It's amazing what some people will try to sell these for on Ebay but you should be able to find a very nice used Squier Standard on Ebay for between $120-$160 shipped.

The hierarchy of course is American Series, then Fender (Mexican) Standard, then Squier Standard, then Squier Affinity and lastly the Squier Bullet. ( NOTE: Some of the newer Mexican made models like the Classic and Deluxe models and the Artist models can be much more expensive....and nicer!... than the Standard models and rival the American models in sound, feel and quality!)

The American and Mexican Strats will have similar bodies and necks as far as materials go but the Americans will typically have the nicer feeling necks, bodies made of fewer pieces, much nicer finishes and better hardware (tuners, bridges, etc) and electronics (pickups, tone/volume controls, etc). The American models will have a 22 fret neck with a width of around 1.68" at the nut and most Mexicans will have a 21 fret neck with a 1.65" width at the nut. Both are very good quality though and lots of people are perfectly happy with the Mexican models, which are a great value for the money. You can upgrade the pickups to American Series quality or better and end up with a really great guitar. The general rule is to buy as good of a guitar as you can afford. The better the guitar, the more likely you are to pick it up and play! Used is a great way to start as you can usually get your money back on a resale. That's if you don't overpay to begin with, which is what this guide is intended to prevent. Plus, when you buy used you can get a much better guitar for the same amount of money. The American models and some of the Mexican made special models can hold their values very well. Use the new and used pricing I've listed above as a guide but it never hurts to do your own research. Check the Ebay 'Completed Listings' for similar models to get a good idea what the going prices are.

- What's a Fat Strat? -

Yes there is such a thing as a 'Fat Strat' also called an HSS (Humbucker, Single-coil, Single-coil) Strat. The typical Strat has 3 single-coil pickups. The Fat Strat has 2 single-coil pickups, one in the neck and one in the mid position, and a humbucker pickup in the bridge position. Humbuckers give what's called a 'fatter' sound than a single-coil. They have more windings and, as a result, are 'hotter' (more output). Generally speaking, the hotter the pickup, the more prominent the midrange frequencies will be hence they're said to have a 'thicker' or 'warmer' sound with less treble bite. Humbuckers are what you'll find in guitars such as the Gibson Les Paul.
The Fat Strat can give you more tone options if that's the kind of sound you're after. But if you're after the true vintage sound of the Stratocaster you may want to stick with the standard 3 single-coil variety. You can buy after market single-coils that are wound hotter and give you a warmer sound also. A lot of people will add a hotter single-coil in the bridge position which I guess could give a "similar" effect as a humbucker.
There are also HH Strats which contain two humbucker pickups and no single-coils at all. These can also be referred to as 'Double Fat' Strats.

- Some things to watch out for when buying a Strat

Stratocaster parts are highly interchangable. Leo Fender designed them that way on purpose. Necks can be removed and replaced very easily by removing 4 screws. Other parts are easily changed out also and there are a ton of after-market parts and/or parts from Stratocaster copies (many inferior), including necks and bodies out there. Read the ads carefully, ask questions if the ads aren't clear, look for serial numbers and check the sellers feedback ratings. I will actually read the feedback the seller has received. His overall rating may be deceptive. Maybe it's all from buying and not from selling. Look at his feedback from buyers. Look at the sellers previous sales. If it looks like they sell a lot of guitars but then try to play dumb in an ad about a certain guitar you should maybe be suspicious. Keep in mind that you can buy very real looking Fender logo decals out there. So anyone could buy an after-market neck and slap a Fender decal on it and attach it to any Strat looking body (Squier, after-market, copy, etc). That's not to say that there aren't excellent after-market parts out there......there are, but there are also inferior parts too. But the bottom line is, if the guitar has a Fender Stratocaster decal on the headstock but no serial number anywhere you should be suspicious.
Many sellers who are selling a Stratocaster will fail to mention in the ad that it's a Squier! Or if they do mention that it's a Squier, they won't mention which model it is (Standard, Affinity or Bullet). And they will often make a point of not giving you a good shot of the headstock so you won't be able to see for yourself. Some of these sellers are obviously just not real knowledgeable themselves but others do it on purpose to dupe unsuspecting buyers. They are counting on your lack of knowledge to charge more than the guitar is worth or to get a quick sale. If the ad does not mention what model (or year even) the guitar is you need to ask specific questions and if you don't get an answer you should be very careful. The bottom line is, if it was made in Korea, China or Indonesia then it's definitely a Squier of some sort.

Here's a picture of a Squier Standard model. Notice the small "Standard' decal on the end of the headstock indicating that this is a 'Standard' model. This is where you would also find the 'Affinity' decal for the Affinity models.



Make sure you know the cosmetic condition of the guitar before bidding. If it isn't mentioned you can email the seller and ask specific questions.

DON'T FALL FOR BOGUS CLAIMS FROM SELLERS!!! I've seen many sellers tout their Strat as being "UPGRADED" when in fact all they've done is put a different pick guard on it or replace the nut. While maybe nice, these modifications alone do not really warrant a premium. Another trick sellers like to play is to claim that the era or year (or factory) their Strat was made in "was back in (pick a date or factory) when they made them good" or "better", "not like the junk they make now", or similar claims. Actually the truth is that the quality and quality control today is probably at an all time high.

Many sellers like to quote the original list or retail price of the guitar. Don't go by this number! The street prices on new guitars can be up to hundreds less than the list or retail prices!

Between 1994-1996 (S/N will start with MN4-MN6), there were some Mexican Standard Strats made that had a very small 'Squier Series' decal on the ball of the headstock These are not to be confused with the 'Squier' Stratocaster model line! Although very similar to real Mexican Standard Strats, there are some subtle differences. These models were made using the same bodies and necks as the Mexican Standard version but they used the cheaper Squier hardware (tuners and bridges). The single-coil ceramic pickups appear to be the same as the Mexican Standards but, since they used a hodgepodge of parts on these, it is not a guarantee. The volume potentiometer can be 500K ohm vs the typical 250K. These guitars do not have the typical 'Squier' decal in large letters, they have a small 'Squier Series' decal on the ball of the headstock, right in the front. Many, if not most, previous owners have found a way to remove this decal (out of vanity?) but there are still many easily identifiable traits. The easiest way to tell is by looking at the 'Fender' logo decal on the front of the headstock. The following picture show a standard Mexican 'Fender' logo decal. Notice how it is a silver-ish (or gold-ish) color with a dark outline



Now here is a picture (below) of the 'Squier Series' headstock. This one happens to have the 'Squier Series' decal but also notice how the entire 'Fender' decal is a solid dark color and there is no outline around the logo. As far as I know, these are the only Stratocasters with the solid dark logo and no outline. However, with the enormous varieties over the years and the sharing of parts between factories I suppose it is possible to find an exception. But chances are extremely good that if you see this type of Fender logo , it's one of those with the 'different' tuners and bridge.

I am convinced many sellers don't even know this themselves as they probably bought the guitar used with the decal already removed. Or let's give them the benefit of the doubt and say, maybe there were some without the decal....maybe they ran out or something! However, all you have to do is compare it to a real Mexican Standard and you will notice the different bridge and tuning machines. The 'Squier Series' decal Strats are certainly not bad guitars and would probably fall between a genuine Mexican Standard and a Squier Standard. These should not command quite the same price as the genuine Mexican Standard though due to the cheaper hardware, but when new I don't think there was a very large price difference. Look for good ones under $200, but if you're patient you can sometimes grab these for between $125-$150. For that price these are a nice bargain but remember, you can often get a real Mexican Standard for $225. (NOTE: There were some 'Squier Series' decal Strats made in Korea in the '90's also but there is virtually no information about them. They do not have the solid dark 'Fender' logo but do have the 'Squier Series' decal. They say 'Made in Korea' on the front of the headstock. These are not the same quality as the Mexican made 'Squier Series' guitars due to lower quality bodies and necks!)

NOTE: A clarification on the solid dark logo: In the very late 60's and throughout most of the 70's there was a darkened-in Fender logo on the American Strats but it was within a gold outline and usually on the large 70's style headstock. Here is an example of the American on top and the Squier Series on bottom. It's really hard to tell with these small pictures, but the logo on top has a gold outline around the Fender logo and then is colored inside the outline. The one on the bottom is solid with no outline. There is a special '70's issue Mexican Strat that does have the period-correct logo like the top picture below but it is in an outline and also happens to have the large 70's style headstock and large 'Stratocaster' decal. So, to identify the true 'Squier Series' decal Strats look for all of the following... the small headstock, solid dark Fender logo with no outline, serial number starting with MN4, MN5 or MN6 and the different tuners and bridge/saddles (see pics in Update 2 at the end of the review). Despite what some sellers are saying, you cannot dispute the fact that the tuners and bridges are not the same! Yeah, so maybe the decal's not there...it doesn't matter.




The 2008 American made Strats are back to being called 'American Standards'! And some nice changes! Per the Fender website:

A new bridge with improved bent-steel saddles and a copper-infused high-mass block for increased resonance and sustain.
A new neck treatment?tinted for a richer presentation, with the maple or rosewood fingerboard buffed to a high gloss. The back of the neck still has that silky satin finish.
A thinner finish undercoat that lets the body breathe and improves resonance.
A new Fender-exclusive SKB molded case. (note: anything would be an improvement)

Two beautiful new finish options, Sienna Sunburst and Blizzard Pearl.



The most significant visual change is with the bent steel saddles onthe bridge. They now look like the Mexican models but still only have the 2 screws whereas the Mexican Standard models have 6 screws holding the bridge to the body. Here's the new American Standard:
$999.99 - $1,099.99 and free shipping at the online shops.

I have received several emails about my write-up on the 'Squier Series' Strats...the ones with the solid dark Fender logo? You know, my intention was never to knock that model but people that own them or are trying to sell them refuse to believe that they own anything other than a regular Mexican Standard. OK... so here's pictures of a genuine Mexican Standard and a 'Squier Series'. I will give pictures of the tuners and the bridge that show the differences. You may have to save these images to your computer and enlarge them.

First, here is a picture of a 'Squier Series' tuning pegs:


Now here is the Mexican Standard tuners:


And here is the 'Squier Series' bridge and saddles: These are not bent steel.


And the Mexican Standard bridge: These are the bent steel type saddles that are stamped 'Fender'


If anyone has pictures of a Strat with the solid dark Fender logo (with no outline), on a small headstock that has the regular Mexican Standard tuners and bridge I would love to see them.


Well, that's about all I can offer for now. I will update this as I gain more knowledge or as the market changes. Again, please keep in mind that I have only discussed the more common types of stock Strats you'll find out there. You'll find owners that have performed upgrades asking more for them. Like I mentioned in the beginning, there are many more vintage, re-issues and/or specialty Strats I have not talked about. Some of these are very highly thought of and/or possibly collectable and can command much higher prices and are beyond the scope of this guide (and my knowledge!).
I hope this helps relieve some of the confusion about all of the different Strats, or even more hopefully it doesn't add to it!

Updated links to Fender Strat information:

Fender Stratocaster - Wikipedia, the free encyclopedia

Stratocasters (Strats) by Model: Photos and Information - Strat Collector News

I am not anywhere near an expert on this subject....far from it. The intention was just to try and make it a little more clear for the newbie's. I apologize if you found something you disagree with. If you've found this guide helpful, good for you! You have learned something new and spread the good word.

Disclaimer: I am absolutely not an expert nor am I qualified to appraise the value of your guitar. I'm sorry, but all I know concerning Strats and their values is in the guide.

• Screw drivers ( + and - )
• Pen knife ( Preferably a brand new blade, You will need the added sharpness)
• 250ml Industrial glue ( You may need to produce your identity card at certain hardware shops to purchase )
• Sandpaper ( Rough & Fine )
• Scissors
• Spray Paint/Paint ( color of your choice )
• A small paint brush
• Body moisturizer
• Hydroflux Vinyl

Depending on the size of your amp, the amount of Hydroflux vinyl will vary. In my instance, I?m working on my 30 watt Laney LX35D amp. I went out to buy 1 meter worth of Hydroflux vinyl at $20.95 per meter. This can be found at SPOTLIGHT at plaza singapura * thanks to feNdeRbeN for the tip off.*

Here's the victim before the job

Firstly, you will need to fully dismantle your amp and leave just the housing on its own. If you are not sure of how to do this, I would not recommend it as it may ruin a completely good amp if you are not careful. Seek for professional help on this one.

Next, Remove the amp tolex (amp skin) from it?s housing. This can be tricky and may need a lot of strength to do. Try not tear the tolex into a million pieces as you will need it for a trace later. Try to remember the directions of how the original tolex was in place as it will be the way you put on your new skin. Once you have wrestled out the tolex to its pulp, use sandpaper to smooth out the amp. The rougher grained sandpaper first then followed by a smoother grained sandpaper to finish off. This may require a fair amount of time as some glue stains may be very stubborn.

Once you accomplished the removing of the old tolex, You may want to give the insides of the housing a color change by painting or spraying on your choice of color.

If you have managed to tear out your old tolex in one piece, Good for you! Use this to trace out the rough shape on the new skin by marking it with a pen. Carefully cut the traced portions out and now you are ready for the new implant.

Now here comes the important part. Your new skin! Before putting on the new skin, use a dry cloth to wipe off any unwanted dust or dirt. Next, place the skin on top the housing to make sure you have the sizes right. Cutt the places that needs folding. It?s ok to have some access but not too little.

Once you have got a rough measurement of the skin, Use your paint brush and apply an even coat of glue on your first contact point. Stick the skin on the first point and let it set for a while. After which, follow up with an even coat of glue. Small portion by small portion. DO NOT do it all at one go as this way gives you NO room for error. Press firmly to avoid having air pockets and measure after each step to make sure that the alignments have not gone off too much and that you are on track. If you find yourself slightly short, You can stretch the material a little to make minor adjustments. If it's totally wrong, you can still tear out the skin and re apply again if the glue has not fully bonded. Patience is key?.

Once you have completely finished with the application of the new skin, Use your pen knife or scissors to cut off unwanted skin from the housing. The edges can be tricky so pay attention to what you cut.You may need to have some precision cutting to fit the pieces together hence it is important to know which piece goes where. Hence you will need a very sharp pen knife.

After completing the entire amp with the new skin, Start putting the parts of the amp back to its original positions like when you took them out and You are DONE!! Finish up by cleaning up your amp with some body moisturizer on the skin of the amp for that smooth silky new amp feel.

I took approximately 5-6 hours to complete this. Good luck to those who are going to give this a try. I hope this information will be somewhat helpful to you.

The Final Product!

Well worth the time & effort! 

• Screw drivers ( + and - )
• Pen knife ( Preferably a brand new blade, You will need the added sharpness)
• 250ml Industrial glue ( You may need to produce your identity card at certain hardware shops to purchase )
• Sandpaper ( Rough & Fine )
• Scissors
• Spray Paint/Paint ( color of your choice )
• A small paint brush
• Body moisturizer
• Hydroflux Vinyl

Depending on the size of your amp, the amount of Hydroflux vinyl will vary. In my instance, I?m working on my 30 watt Laney LX35D amp. I went out to buy 1 meter worth of Hydroflux vinyl at $20.95 per meter. This can be found at SPOTLIGHT at plaza singapura * thanks to feNdeRbeN for the tip off.*

Here's the victim before the job

Firstly, you will need to fully dismantle your amp and leave just the housing on its own. If you are not sure of how to do this, I would not recommend it as it may ruin a completely good amp if you are not careful. Seek for professional help on this one.

Next, Remove the amp tolex (amp skin) from it?s housing. This can be tricky and may need a lot of strength to do. Try not tear the tolex into a million pieces as you will need it for a trace later. Try to remember the directions of how the original tolex was in place as it will be the way you put on your new skin. Once you have wrestled out the tolex to its pulp, use sandpaper to smooth out the amp. The rougher grained sandpaper first then followed by a smoother grained sandpaper to finish off. This may require a fair amount of time as some glue stains may be very stubborn.

Once you accomplished the removing of the old tolex, You may want to give the insides of the housing a color change by painting or spraying on your choice of color.

If you have managed to tear out your old tolex in one piece, Good for you! Use this to trace out the rough shape on the new skin by marking it with a pen. Carefully cut the traced portions out and now you are ready for the new implant.

Now here comes the important part. Your new skin! Before putting on the new skin, use a dry cloth to wipe off any unwanted dust or dirt. Next, place the skin on top the housing to make sure you have the sizes right. Cutt the places that needs folding. It?s ok to have some access but not too little.

Once you have got a rough measurement of the skin, Use your paint brush and apply an even coat of glue on your first contact point. Stick the skin on the first point and let it set for a while. After which, follow up with an even coat of glue. Small portion by small portion. DO NOT do it all at one go as this way gives you NO room for error. Press firmly to avoid having air pockets and measure after each step to make sure that the alignments have not gone off too much and that you are on track. If you find yourself slightly short, You can stretch the material a little to make minor adjustments. If it's totally wrong, you can still tear out the skin and re apply again if the glue has not fully bonded. Patience is key?.

Once you have completely finished with the application of the new skin, Use your pen knife or scissors to cut off unwanted skin from the housing. The edges can be tricky so pay attention to what you cut.You may need to have some precision cutting to fit the pieces together hence it is important to know which piece goes where. Hence you will need a very sharp pen knife.

After completing the entire amp with the new skin, Start putting the parts of the amp back to its original positions like when you took them out and You are DONE!! Finish up by cleaning up your amp with some body moisturizer on the skin of the amp for that smooth silky new amp feel.

I took approximately 5-6 hours to complete this. Good luck to those who are going to give this a try. I hope this information will be somewhat helpful to you.

The Final Product!

Well worth the time & effort!